And Then There Was One...

My time in Shanghai has come to an end and one of the signs of that is that there is only one granola bar left in my drawer. I brought over a stash to have one for breakfast each morning in my room and this morning I closed the drawer on a lone bar.

It has been an interesting experience and a learning one. As in any culture, the extremes are evidenced here, too. I visited the more posh areas of the city, but lived in a more humble part. I had my choice of eating any part of the animal or aquatic I wanted, or visiting a McDonald's, Burger King, KFC, Pizza Hut, or Starbucks (coffee consumption has increased 75 percent in the last five years in China). I saw the elegance of their design and the 'more is better' aspect of their design. I could shop in designer stores or at the copy mall. I had an opportunity to appreciate the antiquities dating back 10,000 years and see the challenges of a culture trying to move at lightning speed into modern and futuristic times.

One of the highlights was spending a day with the International General Manager of the Best Buy stores in Shanghai. I was at the first store that they opened (they currently have three and will be opening more in the next year) and was able to dialogue throughout the day about strategy. I will be anxious to bring all that back into the classroom.

One of the things that I will not miss in the least is the noise level. Interestingly, China has a law that fines people 200 yuan for honking their horns. This is part of their environmental initiative to combat the noise level. The law was a surprise to me as this is a constant on the streets. In fact, one time my taxi driver laid on his horn for an entire block! People, whether on bicycles or on foot, are constantly on the streets and North Dakota prairies look pretty appealing right now. It is time to get back home so I am off to get out the suitcases, pack, and then arise in the morning to eat my last granola bar...and then there was none.

East Meets West in Advertising

Capturing consumers' interest in the marketplace is a mainstay of any business and it has been interesting to see how American companies do this via advertising to the Chinese culture. Through watching some television, reading newspapers, and traveling around the city, I have tried to take note of the dominant advertisers in this market.

Hands down, the health and beauty aids companies do the most advertising. Lancome, Nivea, L'Oreal, Pantene, Garnier, Eucerin, Listerine, and Johnson baby products are dominant. Some do a straight extension of their advertising visuals with the Chinese language overlay, such as Lancome, while others adapt their commercials to the market, such as Nivea. The Chinese women that L'Oreal uses are very Western in their look, melding the influences.

Food products, including restaurants, would come in second regarding frequency. McDonald's ads are all Chinese adapted with the exception of the 'I'm Lovin It' tag line. The only recognizable feature of the Pizza Hut ads is the red roof. If you weren't familiar with that icon, it would be difficult to decipher the company. The Colonel is prominent for KFC and that is the only similarity. Burger King does not do any television advertising but is very visible in the Metro stations. Pepsi and 7-Up signs are commonly found on street corner posts. Snickers has a different positioning strategy that is quite interesting; it is positioned as an energy bar. The commercial features a young man playing table tennis and appears to be losing his zest; he grabs a Snickers bar and returns to the game being rejuvenated. Coca-Cola, Dove chocolates, Doritos, Jack Daniels, and Heineken have seen minor air time.

Others who have entered the Chinese advertising arena include Apple and Sony; Apple airs constantly, featuring only the Nano. The advertisement is the same as in the States. Adidas and Nike were most prominent in athletic wear. In fact, a huge Adidas ad covered the side wall of the Nike store here. I took the picture thinking it was a Nike ad because of its location and then saw afterwards that it was the competition being friendly! Nike is known for its international perspective in its advertising and what aired on television attested to that--international athletes engaged in their sports with the 'Just Do It' tagline at the end. Also, Levi and Visa have had minor airtime.

What has been most interesting is to see how much Western influence is incorporated into the messages. Invariably, even if the Chinese culture is dominant, it has been tempered by East meets West.
















Nike Just Do it

Wal-Mart

You can't escape it. It is everywhere, the Wal-Mart presence. With retail as my background, I couldn't have a stay in Shanghai and pass up the opportunity to see how the retailer extends it's brand in the global marketplace.

A student of Nichole's was kind enough to accompany us. Wal-Mart is located in a mall (moderate image), but does not have a dominant presence from the street. Walking through the glass double doors gives entrance to a side entrance of the mall. You know you are getting close because there is a stand of Wal-Mart advertisements for the customers. Only through taking the nearby escalators can Wal-Mart be reached. Since real estate is at such a premium, there is no such thing as the sprawling expanse we see in the U.S. Wal-Mart occupied three floors and seemed to come up a little short on the square footage when compared to the Grand Forks store.

There was no missing the familiar blue vests and similar signage, and you still needed to navigate around the large bins and displays that were in the aisles...it was an annoyance here, too. Most of the grocery items were on the first floor with the home and fashion areas on the other two floors. Interspersed were appliances, sports, books, health and beauty aids--the usual offerings. Organization seemed to be more haphazard and didn't have the adjacencies we are accustomed to.

Along with the major checkout lanes at the exit of the store, there were many checkout stations throughout the store. Certain items must be paid for before leaving an area. Small appliances and electrics, books, and certain food items were those that I noticed. When the item is put in a plastic bag (very lightweight, not the usual Wal-Mart bag), the top is twisted and placed in a machine that wraps a tape for closure. If this tape is broken, I am sure that would be a clue for security to check the items in the bag for being shoplifted. If the item is small, then the receipt is taped to it.

Plastic bags are used sparingly in China in order to reduce the waste. At Wal-Mart, the two small items that I purchased did not receive a bag; they were small enough to fit in my purse. Nichole purchased a cotton bag (it had the Wal-Mart logo on it) to carry home her purchases. It seems that shoppers are responsible for providing their own carrier. Even at the Lotus Center, customers are charged for a plastic bag if they desire one. This certainly magnifies the waste we have when often, only an item or two are placed in bags back home.

What attracted my interest were the escalators. They were not steps but a straight incline or decline to accommodate taking the shopping carts from one floor to another. The customers that are taking this ride, are a captive audience for the items that align the railings and the advertisements that are on its side walls. It is easy pickings to grab the items from boxes. Some of the items were similar to what we would find at checkout lanes--snacks, lotions, etc.

It wouldn't be a Wal-Mart unless there was a greeter, and lo and behold, there she was. I didn't notice her on the way in, but she was present when leaving. I am sure she was thanking us for shopping at Wal-Mart. Even though I didn't know exactly what she was saying, it still felt like a 'slice of home.'

"Signed, Sealed, Delivered"

"Here I am baby--signed, sealed, delivered--I'm yours." That was the song that the crowd at Malone's broke out singing as Barack Obama was declared the winner of the presidential election.

Wow, what a morning it was. Nichole and I had our choice of going to Malone's (our favorite breakfast spot) for an election results watch party that began at 7:30 a.m. on this Wednesday morning (5:30 p.m. CT Tuesday) with live CNN coverage or going to another watch party at the Hilton Hotel. The one at the Hilton was sponsored by the American Chamber of Commerce with support from the American Consulate Community and the American Women's Club in Shanghai. Malone's won.

What an experience this was. I cannot even begin to tell you what it was like to be in a place with three floors of expats watching a moment in American history unfold. Outside those walls, the Chinese people were going about their everyday lives, unaware of the emotional bond that tied us all together inside. Love of our country abounded and hope for its future was evident. The crowd cheered with an Obama projected win of a state, but you could hear a pin drop when both McCain and Obama gave their eloquent speeches. All hung on every word.

A photographer was there possibly taking pictures for a local paper; I'll see what appears in the Shanghai Daily tomorrow. One of the local organizers also took photos to be sent to Obama headquarters; maybe they will surface somewhere.

It has been interesting to see how the campaigning and election have been covered in China. Last evening on the news, only a few minutes were spent on local news and then coverage shifted to the election. Chinese political analysts gave their viewpoints, there were profiles of both candidates, clips from their campaigns,...but after watching for an hour, I knew I my early rising in the morning had to be addressed since it would take an hour to get to Malone's via cab and the Metro. I don't know how long the coverage continued after that. Even before last evening, the coverage was a staple each night. Coverage of the candidates' respective views on relations with China, trade, and security; the early voting in some of the states; and how the election of each would affect the global financial markets were some of the noted segments.

Tonight I know where I will be, watching more of the aftermath and its diagnosis from a different cultural viewpoint. But for six hours today, I was with my fellow Americans.

Qibao Old Town

Qibao Old Town was another must-see sight from my January visit. Old Shanghai is represented here as buildings of the Ming and Qing dynasties are preserved and represent some of China's colorful folk culture.

It is a visitor's delight, not only because of the architecture, but because of the shops and restaurants. It is easy to get lost for several hours in trying to take in all the visual stimulation. Though most of the shops are selling items that would be considered 'native' to China--teas, silks, jade--in the midst can still be found a Starbuck's, Haagen Dazs, and Dairy Queen. Believe it or not, I did pass up the Dairy Queen as Nichole and I had eaten our lunch at Burger King about an hour before.

Bargaining for the price is most of the fun. They have their price and you have yours. If your skills are good, you may get something for one-fourth the asking price. It is a clear clue that they want to make a deal when they come after you down the street. One gentleman followed me for quite a distance, each time telling me a new 'bottom' price.

Because there was a slight rain, some of the aromas eminating from the small eateries could have dropped a bull in its tracks. But there was a long line at one walkup eatery and I remembered a similar line last January. It must be 'the' place to get dumplings as the line had about 70 people waiting. There were several making the dumplings in order to keep up with the demand. I am sure the wait had to be at least 45 minutes before getting to the window to purchase.

When the bag gets heavy is a good clue that it is time to catch a cab to take the Metro to take another cab back to the abode.

Shanghai Museum

The only feeling to have is overwhelming awe when looking at artifacts that easily date back thousands of years in the Chinese culture. The skills that are visible are humbling. I had been to the Shanghai Museum in January and it was a place I wanted to visit again.

From the museum brochure, "The Shanghai Museum, established in 1952, is a large museum famous for its collection of ancient Chinese art in the world. It has 120,000 pieces of works of art in the collection with ancient Chinese bronze, ceramics and calligraphy and painting as it special feature. Now the museum has ten monographic galleries of bronze, ceramics, calligraphy, painting, sculpture, seals, jade, furniture, coins and minority nationalities' art, three special galleries for donated ceramics, three exhibition halls to hold temporary exhibitions and a multimedia studio. The works of art shown in the galleries are mainly masterpieces of Chinese cultural heritage, spanning from the Neolithic Age through Ming and Qing dynasties until modern times."

One of my my favorite galleries was that of ethnic minorities' arts and crafts. There are 56 ethnic groups of people in China. The gallery featured costumes that were symbols of their cultures. They varied in material, design, color, ornamentation to represent their different ways of life, methods of production, religious faiths, aesthetic standards, and geographic environments. Beautiful textiles with woven, printed or embroidered designs and distinctive artifacts such as metal ware, lacquer ware, pottery, masks, and carved and knitted works are the reflection of peoples' skills in art creation and craftsmanship. A heavily embroidered Manchurian court robe and cloak was so beautiful, I had to go back and take a second look before I left that gallery. The style was to meet their original needs of hunting and fighting, with the large front and 'sword' sleeves to protect the hands in fighting. Later this style of garment became the Manchurian formal way of dress.

On my visit in January, the jade gallery was closed for reinstallation so I was glad that it was now open for viewing. China has an abundant deposit of jade and the tradition of jade carving started early in the Neolithic period. The style of carvings over the years have reflected Chinese politics, the economy, culture, ideology, ethics, and religion. Archaeological excavations have shown that jade was primarily owned by the upper class in ancient China. The jade was often buried in the tombs of clan leaders and royal family members. It was believed to be a link between the gods and human beings and served to get rid of evils. Jade was used in sacrificial ceremonies to worship gods, worn to honor ancestors, buried with dead, and worn as amulets. Confucius related jade to human morality, the positive kind, so wearing jade became very popular with all classes of people. Watching a short video on the mining and carving of jade illustrated a very skilled craft. I had to take several photos showing off the intricate designs of many of the pieces.

The Bronze Age in China started in the 21st century BC and lasted about 2,000 years. Bronze technology is considered one of the most important achievements of Chinese civilization. Main uses of the bronze were for ceremonial purposes, again, by the upper class in this early time. The variey and quantity of the bronzes that would be used in an occasion would be a reflection of the owner's social status and power. The main uses of the bronzes were as wine, food, and water vessels; musical instruments; and armory. The intricacies of design were spectacular.

The ceramic gallery was another highlight. The pottery and porcelain were beautiful. How could one not appreciate a Ming vase! Colors ranged from muted tones to vibrant colors. Each dynasty had its own characteristics of design. The early works shown dated to the prehistoric Neolithic period. I have commented on the hard beds over here but they are no match for the ceramic pillows that I noted in the display!

Other gallery stops included the painting, calligraphy, and the Ming and Qing furniture galleries. Each offered a chance to learn more about the Chinese culture. The museum was full on this day and it was the first time that I had seen so many Americans in one place since I had been here. It is a popular stop on the tourists' itineraries. There is a security check when you enter and if you have a bottle of liquid in your bag, you are asked to take a drink. That was a first time for me. Maybe airlines could do the same thing. If you took a drink of your water as you went through security you wouldn't have to wait until you got 'to the other side' to purchase the inflated price liquids!