And Then There Was One...

My time in Shanghai has come to an end and one of the signs of that is that there is only one granola bar left in my drawer. I brought over a stash to have one for breakfast each morning in my room and this morning I closed the drawer on a lone bar.

It has been an interesting experience and a learning one. As in any culture, the extremes are evidenced here, too. I visited the more posh areas of the city, but lived in a more humble part. I had my choice of eating any part of the animal or aquatic I wanted, or visiting a McDonald's, Burger King, KFC, Pizza Hut, or Starbucks (coffee consumption has increased 75 percent in the last five years in China). I saw the elegance of their design and the 'more is better' aspect of their design. I could shop in designer stores or at the copy mall. I had an opportunity to appreciate the antiquities dating back 10,000 years and see the challenges of a culture trying to move at lightning speed into modern and futuristic times.

One of the highlights was spending a day with the International General Manager of the Best Buy stores in Shanghai. I was at the first store that they opened (they currently have three and will be opening more in the next year) and was able to dialogue throughout the day about strategy. I will be anxious to bring all that back into the classroom.

One of the things that I will not miss in the least is the noise level. Interestingly, China has a law that fines people 200 yuan for honking their horns. This is part of their environmental initiative to combat the noise level. The law was a surprise to me as this is a constant on the streets. In fact, one time my taxi driver laid on his horn for an entire block! People, whether on bicycles or on foot, are constantly on the streets and North Dakota prairies look pretty appealing right now. It is time to get back home so I am off to get out the suitcases, pack, and then arise in the morning to eat my last granola bar...and then there was none.

East Meets West in Advertising

Capturing consumers' interest in the marketplace is a mainstay of any business and it has been interesting to see how American companies do this via advertising to the Chinese culture. Through watching some television, reading newspapers, and traveling around the city, I have tried to take note of the dominant advertisers in this market.

Hands down, the health and beauty aids companies do the most advertising. Lancome, Nivea, L'Oreal, Pantene, Garnier, Eucerin, Listerine, and Johnson baby products are dominant. Some do a straight extension of their advertising visuals with the Chinese language overlay, such as Lancome, while others adapt their commercials to the market, such as Nivea. The Chinese women that L'Oreal uses are very Western in their look, melding the influences.

Food products, including restaurants, would come in second regarding frequency. McDonald's ads are all Chinese adapted with the exception of the 'I'm Lovin It' tag line. The only recognizable feature of the Pizza Hut ads is the red roof. If you weren't familiar with that icon, it would be difficult to decipher the company. The Colonel is prominent for KFC and that is the only similarity. Burger King does not do any television advertising but is very visible in the Metro stations. Pepsi and 7-Up signs are commonly found on street corner posts. Snickers has a different positioning strategy that is quite interesting; it is positioned as an energy bar. The commercial features a young man playing table tennis and appears to be losing his zest; he grabs a Snickers bar and returns to the game being rejuvenated. Coca-Cola, Dove chocolates, Doritos, Jack Daniels, and Heineken have seen minor air time.

Others who have entered the Chinese advertising arena include Apple and Sony; Apple airs constantly, featuring only the Nano. The advertisement is the same as in the States. Adidas and Nike were most prominent in athletic wear. In fact, a huge Adidas ad covered the side wall of the Nike store here. I took the picture thinking it was a Nike ad because of its location and then saw afterwards that it was the competition being friendly! Nike is known for its international perspective in its advertising and what aired on television attested to that--international athletes engaged in their sports with the 'Just Do It' tagline at the end. Also, Levi and Visa have had minor airtime.

What has been most interesting is to see how much Western influence is incorporated into the messages. Invariably, even if the Chinese culture is dominant, it has been tempered by East meets West.
















Nike Just Do it

Wal-Mart

You can't escape it. It is everywhere, the Wal-Mart presence. With retail as my background, I couldn't have a stay in Shanghai and pass up the opportunity to see how the retailer extends it's brand in the global marketplace.

A student of Nichole's was kind enough to accompany us. Wal-Mart is located in a mall (moderate image), but does not have a dominant presence from the street. Walking through the glass double doors gives entrance to a side entrance of the mall. You know you are getting close because there is a stand of Wal-Mart advertisements for the customers. Only through taking the nearby escalators can Wal-Mart be reached. Since real estate is at such a premium, there is no such thing as the sprawling expanse we see in the U.S. Wal-Mart occupied three floors and seemed to come up a little short on the square footage when compared to the Grand Forks store.

There was no missing the familiar blue vests and similar signage, and you still needed to navigate around the large bins and displays that were in the aisles...it was an annoyance here, too. Most of the grocery items were on the first floor with the home and fashion areas on the other two floors. Interspersed were appliances, sports, books, health and beauty aids--the usual offerings. Organization seemed to be more haphazard and didn't have the adjacencies we are accustomed to.

Along with the major checkout lanes at the exit of the store, there were many checkout stations throughout the store. Certain items must be paid for before leaving an area. Small appliances and electrics, books, and certain food items were those that I noticed. When the item is put in a plastic bag (very lightweight, not the usual Wal-Mart bag), the top is twisted and placed in a machine that wraps a tape for closure. If this tape is broken, I am sure that would be a clue for security to check the items in the bag for being shoplifted. If the item is small, then the receipt is taped to it.

Plastic bags are used sparingly in China in order to reduce the waste. At Wal-Mart, the two small items that I purchased did not receive a bag; they were small enough to fit in my purse. Nichole purchased a cotton bag (it had the Wal-Mart logo on it) to carry home her purchases. It seems that shoppers are responsible for providing their own carrier. Even at the Lotus Center, customers are charged for a plastic bag if they desire one. This certainly magnifies the waste we have when often, only an item or two are placed in bags back home.

What attracted my interest were the escalators. They were not steps but a straight incline or decline to accommodate taking the shopping carts from one floor to another. The customers that are taking this ride, are a captive audience for the items that align the railings and the advertisements that are on its side walls. It is easy pickings to grab the items from boxes. Some of the items were similar to what we would find at checkout lanes--snacks, lotions, etc.

It wouldn't be a Wal-Mart unless there was a greeter, and lo and behold, there she was. I didn't notice her on the way in, but she was present when leaving. I am sure she was thanking us for shopping at Wal-Mart. Even though I didn't know exactly what she was saying, it still felt like a 'slice of home.'

"Signed, Sealed, Delivered"

"Here I am baby--signed, sealed, delivered--I'm yours." That was the song that the crowd at Malone's broke out singing as Barack Obama was declared the winner of the presidential election.

Wow, what a morning it was. Nichole and I had our choice of going to Malone's (our favorite breakfast spot) for an election results watch party that began at 7:30 a.m. on this Wednesday morning (5:30 p.m. CT Tuesday) with live CNN coverage or going to another watch party at the Hilton Hotel. The one at the Hilton was sponsored by the American Chamber of Commerce with support from the American Consulate Community and the American Women's Club in Shanghai. Malone's won.

What an experience this was. I cannot even begin to tell you what it was like to be in a place with three floors of expats watching a moment in American history unfold. Outside those walls, the Chinese people were going about their everyday lives, unaware of the emotional bond that tied us all together inside. Love of our country abounded and hope for its future was evident. The crowd cheered with an Obama projected win of a state, but you could hear a pin drop when both McCain and Obama gave their eloquent speeches. All hung on every word.

A photographer was there possibly taking pictures for a local paper; I'll see what appears in the Shanghai Daily tomorrow. One of the local organizers also took photos to be sent to Obama headquarters; maybe they will surface somewhere.

It has been interesting to see how the campaigning and election have been covered in China. Last evening on the news, only a few minutes were spent on local news and then coverage shifted to the election. Chinese political analysts gave their viewpoints, there were profiles of both candidates, clips from their campaigns,...but after watching for an hour, I knew I my early rising in the morning had to be addressed since it would take an hour to get to Malone's via cab and the Metro. I don't know how long the coverage continued after that. Even before last evening, the coverage was a staple each night. Coverage of the candidates' respective views on relations with China, trade, and security; the early voting in some of the states; and how the election of each would affect the global financial markets were some of the noted segments.

Tonight I know where I will be, watching more of the aftermath and its diagnosis from a different cultural viewpoint. But for six hours today, I was with my fellow Americans.

Qibao Old Town

Qibao Old Town was another must-see sight from my January visit. Old Shanghai is represented here as buildings of the Ming and Qing dynasties are preserved and represent some of China's colorful folk culture.

It is a visitor's delight, not only because of the architecture, but because of the shops and restaurants. It is easy to get lost for several hours in trying to take in all the visual stimulation. Though most of the shops are selling items that would be considered 'native' to China--teas, silks, jade--in the midst can still be found a Starbuck's, Haagen Dazs, and Dairy Queen. Believe it or not, I did pass up the Dairy Queen as Nichole and I had eaten our lunch at Burger King about an hour before.

Bargaining for the price is most of the fun. They have their price and you have yours. If your skills are good, you may get something for one-fourth the asking price. It is a clear clue that they want to make a deal when they come after you down the street. One gentleman followed me for quite a distance, each time telling me a new 'bottom' price.

Because there was a slight rain, some of the aromas eminating from the small eateries could have dropped a bull in its tracks. But there was a long line at one walkup eatery and I remembered a similar line last January. It must be 'the' place to get dumplings as the line had about 70 people waiting. There were several making the dumplings in order to keep up with the demand. I am sure the wait had to be at least 45 minutes before getting to the window to purchase.

When the bag gets heavy is a good clue that it is time to catch a cab to take the Metro to take another cab back to the abode.

Shanghai Museum

The only feeling to have is overwhelming awe when looking at artifacts that easily date back thousands of years in the Chinese culture. The skills that are visible are humbling. I had been to the Shanghai Museum in January and it was a place I wanted to visit again.

From the museum brochure, "The Shanghai Museum, established in 1952, is a large museum famous for its collection of ancient Chinese art in the world. It has 120,000 pieces of works of art in the collection with ancient Chinese bronze, ceramics and calligraphy and painting as it special feature. Now the museum has ten monographic galleries of bronze, ceramics, calligraphy, painting, sculpture, seals, jade, furniture, coins and minority nationalities' art, three special galleries for donated ceramics, three exhibition halls to hold temporary exhibitions and a multimedia studio. The works of art shown in the galleries are mainly masterpieces of Chinese cultural heritage, spanning from the Neolithic Age through Ming and Qing dynasties until modern times."

One of my my favorite galleries was that of ethnic minorities' arts and crafts. There are 56 ethnic groups of people in China. The gallery featured costumes that were symbols of their cultures. They varied in material, design, color, ornamentation to represent their different ways of life, methods of production, religious faiths, aesthetic standards, and geographic environments. Beautiful textiles with woven, printed or embroidered designs and distinctive artifacts such as metal ware, lacquer ware, pottery, masks, and carved and knitted works are the reflection of peoples' skills in art creation and craftsmanship. A heavily embroidered Manchurian court robe and cloak was so beautiful, I had to go back and take a second look before I left that gallery. The style was to meet their original needs of hunting and fighting, with the large front and 'sword' sleeves to protect the hands in fighting. Later this style of garment became the Manchurian formal way of dress.

On my visit in January, the jade gallery was closed for reinstallation so I was glad that it was now open for viewing. China has an abundant deposit of jade and the tradition of jade carving started early in the Neolithic period. The style of carvings over the years have reflected Chinese politics, the economy, culture, ideology, ethics, and religion. Archaeological excavations have shown that jade was primarily owned by the upper class in ancient China. The jade was often buried in the tombs of clan leaders and royal family members. It was believed to be a link between the gods and human beings and served to get rid of evils. Jade was used in sacrificial ceremonies to worship gods, worn to honor ancestors, buried with dead, and worn as amulets. Confucius related jade to human morality, the positive kind, so wearing jade became very popular with all classes of people. Watching a short video on the mining and carving of jade illustrated a very skilled craft. I had to take several photos showing off the intricate designs of many of the pieces.

The Bronze Age in China started in the 21st century BC and lasted about 2,000 years. Bronze technology is considered one of the most important achievements of Chinese civilization. Main uses of the bronze were for ceremonial purposes, again, by the upper class in this early time. The variey and quantity of the bronzes that would be used in an occasion would be a reflection of the owner's social status and power. The main uses of the bronzes were as wine, food, and water vessels; musical instruments; and armory. The intricacies of design were spectacular.

The ceramic gallery was another highlight. The pottery and porcelain were beautiful. How could one not appreciate a Ming vase! Colors ranged from muted tones to vibrant colors. Each dynasty had its own characteristics of design. The early works shown dated to the prehistoric Neolithic period. I have commented on the hard beds over here but they are no match for the ceramic pillows that I noted in the display!

Other gallery stops included the painting, calligraphy, and the Ming and Qing furniture galleries. Each offered a chance to learn more about the Chinese culture. The museum was full on this day and it was the first time that I had seen so many Americans in one place since I had been here. It is a popular stop on the tourists' itineraries. There is a security check when you enter and if you have a bottle of liquid in your bag, you are asked to take a drink. That was a first time for me. Maybe airlines could do the same thing. If you took a drink of your water as you went through security you wouldn't have to wait until you got 'to the other side' to purchase the inflated price liquids!

Student Tidbits

Whenever one travels, there are always those tidbits of information picked up that are most interesting. I have noted a few concerning the students during the past weeks and thought it was time to share.

Every October the campus has a blood drive and the Red Cross comes in to set up. Earlier this week, the long lines were in place for donating blood. Apparently, all students are required to donate blood once during their years at USST; it is part of their social commitment. The caveat is that students get three days off from classes when they do this. I don't know if students have to work around tests and such, but I do know that class attendance drops during late October. That just provides them with more time to play video games, which is...

One of the fastest growing addictions here, an addiction to video games among the young adults. This addiction begins at the university level as students have indicated that they didn't do this while in their other schooling. A measure to counter this is that electricity is turned off in the dorms at 11:30 in the evening. Apparently when this was first done, there was quite a student uprising. With no electricity that also means no studying. No wonder I still hear the sounds of them playing basketball in the middle of the night. But whether it is the basketball courts, the soccer fields, or the track, there are no outdoor lights. All are played in natural light or darkness. That is one way to save on the energy bill.

With a Communist government, support is provided the population at many levels. For students, the food costs related to their meals in the cafeteria are subsidized, which significantly lowers their cost. On a yearly basis, about 4000 yuan is spent by the students for food, about 700 yuan for books, 1200 yuan for the dorm, and about 20,000 yuan for tuitiion. Divide that by about 7 to convert to U.S. dollars. Though the food costs may be low, if you are not there when the food is put out, you will be eating it cold. There are no such things as warmers or refrigeration units. Food could be sitting out for three hours before the last ones eat. A metal tray filled with rice is provided, and the other items are personally selected. Each item has a cost and the cafeteria smart card is scanned after selections are made. I have eaten there twice (they have about five cafeterias) and they are not on my list of favorites.

Only $100 for textbooks for the year, what a deal! That may not even buy one book at home. But you must remember that most textbooks are copied as they don't believe in copyright protection; remember, what is yours, is theirs. The copied black-and-white textbook has a plain paperback cover and the cost must just cover the printing. There is nothing to brag about concerning dorm living either. Two bunk beds for four (maybe four feet between the beds) are placed in a small room with a desk and chair. The mattresses are about three inches thick, and I am sure just as comfortable as mine. Students often go to another building to take their communal showers. Add the clothes hanging around the room that are drying (remember there are no clothes dryers) and you have a nice cozy environment.

Students also have to take tests to determine which university they are allowed to go to. USST is considered a tier two university. Preference is given to Shanghai individuals before those outside the city. Those outside of Shanghai need to score higher on their exams in order to qualify. Students also have little freedom with the classes they must take. A cohort of students will follow through their four years, taking almost all of their classes together. They are envious of the freedom of choice that American students have.

There is a fitness area here on campus but it is a far cry from the Wellness Center at UND. I will post a photo later to share with you their technology in fitness equipment. They are very rudimentary in nature; the treadmill looks like one of those circular cages that mice run in. Running on top of the cage provides the treadmill. The stairmaster is also a pre-, pre-, prototype.

Witnessing life in this developing country provides a pull back to realism. For us, so much is taken for granted, and then the expectation is that we want more. For some students, all they talk about is coming to America to have opportunities and to live a lifestyle that we so boldly display. Is it so good that we flaunt our way of life and breed other materialistic cultures?

Amateur Photographer on the Loose

We were eating at Malone's, so it must be Saturday. A rainy Saturday, which was welcome. The humidity has lifted slightly with the rains which has been a welcome relief. Rain did not appear to limit the number of people that were on the streets or shopping on a Saturday afternoon.

There was a new stop for us today. Nichole Tiggs Williams, a recent UND Masters of Public Administration graduate, arrived last week to teach oral English for four months. We headed for the fabric market as she was looking to have a bridal dress made. From a person who in another life has tailored and designed clothing, I was in my element. The cashmere and silks were eye candy. The construction was impeccable. Hand-done padstitching for lapels, Hong Kong finishes on lining seams, all were flawless. Double-sided cashmere wraps could be custom made for 1200 RMB, a suit of worsted wool for 400 RMB, or a man's cashmere topcoat for 600 RMB. All were bargains. Something caught my eye as I was leaving so I may have to make a trip back. The bridal custom shops were close by so we visited several. Simplicity of design in bridal wear is not the common theme here. It seems the more, the better. We found out that the average price of a wedding here is around 100,000 RMB and Jessica (the Dean's secretary) was at a wedding last weekend that cost 600,000 RMB (remember to divide by 7 to get a rough conversion to U.S. dollars). It gives new meaning to the word elope.

Nanjing Road was one of our walking stops; this is a major shopping environment for locals and tourists alike. I was on the lookout for the sign that Josh had helped design and install for Daktronics in 2006. And then all of a sudden, I was at the corner and its dominance was clearly visible. Such a proud feeling came over me to witness something he had contributed to in another part of the world that literally billions of people will see throughout the years to come.

In our walk back to the Metro, I couldn't help but take a photo of a Nike wanna-be. Another illustration of 'what is yours, is theirs' philosophy. It is not the Nike swoosh, but it wants to be as noted by the slogan, "Anything is possible;" 'just do it,' right?

In the News

It has been interesting to witness how a Communist government frames issues in the news. The positioning of the Chinese government in the midst of the financial shakedown that is happening across the globe has been particularly amusing.

On the news programs, officials indicate that China's economy is strong and should still see an annual growth of its GDP of around nine percent. In fact, the thought is that China should be the foundation of the financial markets rather than the United States. Yet, 2.4 trillion yuan has vanished this year in China's market. The next evening, there is a story regarding the closing of factories because of the reduced demand, particularly from the United States. In Guangzhou, toy factories are closing because the orders from Disney and Mattel have dried up. Most of their demand, 70 to 90 percent, is from these companies. Management cannot be found and employees are left stranded without having been paid.

The housing market is also in a slump. The real estate bubble is evident here, too, and housing prices are expected to fall 10 to 20 percent. Primary housing would be apartments as houses are not within the realm of the majority. As prices have escalated, affordable housing is in demand. To stimulate the housing market, the government will implement changes on November 1 to mortgages. The stamp tax will be eliminated and the contract tax will be reduced from 1.5 to 1 percent. Down payments, which in the past needed to be 30 percent, now will be lowered to 20 percent. All of these changes apply to what the government classifies as "ordinary residences," which account for only 20 percent of the total. Their residential classifications are based on square meters. The down payment reduction is thought to be the most significant measure to reduce the entry barrier.

'Perception is reality' is evident with the interpretation of business practices, too. Microsoft announced that is was cracking down on counterfeit software by beginning a blackout of the program when updates were requested. Counterfeit programs of Microsoft abound over here; in fact, that is what is on the computer I use in the faculty office. In China, what is yours, is theirs. An article in the newspaper had the position that what Microsoft was doing was illegal; that it was violating laws and was following practices of a monopoly. There was no mention of the violation of copyright laws; but then in China, there is no such thing.

With the debate in the presidential race in the U.S. regarding the degree of regulation wanted by businesses and consumers, and how deregulation of the financial markets may have spurred the financial meltdown, it makes one think what is the right answer that balances support with protection without the pendulum swinging in one direction or the other.

Street Vendors

Walking the streets of Shanghai can make a person feel desired. But it is only regarding your attention and your money. The street vendors are clamoring for you to stop and acknowledge what they have to peddle. What they sell and how aggressive they are in doing so has varied by location within the city.

When downtown, it has mainly been individuals trying to sell the Rolex for about 20 RMB or yuan, about $3.50. What a bargain! I just knew they were overpriced. They stand on street corners, follow you walking, and grab the arm. The true hard sell approach. Food vendors are not in the more upscale shopping area, only those who sell the higher-end counterfeit goods.

Near USST, the environment is entirely different. Street vendors abound and serve the locals. Fresh produce are either in carts or laid out on the streets for selection. Every kind of fruit and vegetable you could think of (and some I had no idea what they were) were available. One item had pyramid-type spikes all over its odd shape. When traveling, I only buy what I can peel so I took it safe and bought more oranges.

Even meat is out in the open, and it is not on ice. Walking by the beef, pork, and chicken that has been out in the elements for a while, with no type of refrigeration, has its own distinct aroma. The pace quickened. Fresh fish, still in the water, can be selected for the evening meal. It will even be gutted for you as you wait. Hairy crabs were being wrapped up for someone else's table.

There was a large, open indoor market that was more of the same; each area specializing in a different type of food. Here one could buy the live chicken if so desired. Different types of breads were also available, and at one bakery stall, there appeared to be oatmeal cookies!

If you want to eat on the street, again, lots of options are available. Different types of fried bread sandwiches, stir fry, grilled or fried kabobs, baked sweet potatoes, caramel corn...quite a selection. The downside is that these ingredients have been sitting out in the open, the time factor unknown, so there is a risk involved with the meat and eggs that are used (at least from my stomach's perspective). The caramel corn is made with an old stir popper and sugar is added when it is popping. It is quite good, and sticky, as that was what Mel had been on the lookout for.

Maybe I will get brave before I leave and try some of the street food. If only I could find a USDA inspection stamp somewhere!

The Tube

I must be dating myself, as I don't think many people still call television, 'the tube.' But the viewing options here in China in this medium in English, have the same limitations as when televisions actually had a tube within them.

There are basically two channels for English viewing. CCTv9 is the news channel that covers the world scene, and then there is ics, which offers other programming. I am thought by Mel and Elmeda to have special privileges, or be royalty, as they only receive the news channel. Though the other day, they were able to receive ics for a short time in their humble abode.

I watch CCTv9 to keep abreast of news in the States, and of course, the financial crisis around the globe. I have been impressed of the global coverage of this issue and they spend quite a bit of time on the European markets and that of Japan. Once in a while, Bush appears on the screen, but not often. The view is that the U.S. did not do enough to bail out its institutions.

The ics channel has been the most interesting to watch in the evening and on a weekend morning. The choice of programs was surprising in comparison to what was on when I was here in January. In January, National Geographic (with a China focus) and documentaries on China were pervasive. Now, Project Runway, Funniest Home Videos, and Amazing Race are popular. The Funniest Home Videos is all U.S. clips with a local host, who is not Chinese. There have also been a few old movies, and I mean old. Gregory Peck and Shelley Winters, in their early days, and an old western have graced the screen.

There is a local cooking show, You are the Chef, where I have learned about the hairy crab. It is in season now and apparently in demand by locals and visitors in the fine restaurants. I can spot a female from a male, not that this will be useful knowledge upon my return. The female host of the show links up with a chef in a restaurant and shows the viewers how to prepare some great dish, even taking a trip to the grocery store to get the ingredients and informing the viewers what to look for. Similar to back home, viewers can log on to the show's website and get the recipe.

Learning about Chinese beer, wine, poetry, art, and mythology have also been part of my education. They are done via a talk show format, bringing in individuals with noted expertise in the areas.

What is going on in the entertainment field is just as popular here as back home. Most evenings there are clips regarding movie and music artists and what they are attending, or their newest release. I can still keep tabs on Paris Hilton if she were on my list of people to watch. There have been two specials regarding Michael Jackson, providing a biography of him through the videos that he released over the years.

Programming is interrupted often back home with commercials and it is no different here. I have been taking notes, but that is another blog.

Getting to Know the Students

It has been interesting getting to know the students here at the University of Shanghai for Science and Technology. They are very eager to practice their English and learn about the United States, as many either want to pursue more education or work in the U.S.

My class has 61 students but I probably have about 45 that show up for each class. The other students either do not know English very well so only study from the textbook, or others may be taking a class at the same time. Apparently here, a student can take a class that overlaps with another. Part of the problem may be that the other courses run for about five months (the term ends in January) and then visiting professors come in to teach for a shorter time period so class times may dovetail one another.

My teaching times also vary with the day, along with the room I am teaching in. I have two meeting times on Monday, 9:55-11:40 a.m. and 1:00-2:40 p.m. Tuesday, class is at 2:50-4:30 p.m. Friday the class meets again at 9:55-11:40 a.m. A bell rings to start the class and class is held for 45 minutes and then a bell rings for a 10 minute break. Another bell to end the break and finish the last 45 minutes of class, which ends with another bell.

My classrooms are equipped with technology but all is secured in a locked metal cabinet. About five minutes before class the cabinet is automatically unlocked (as with all the other classrooms) and the computer turns on automatically along with the screen is lowered. Now this may sound like quite an advanced system but once the cabinet is opened, dust is everywhere. We are so particular about keeping our computer areas dust free in the States that this was quite a shocker. I blow dust off the USB port before using. Once class is over, I shut the door and the system is locked until the next class.

All the students have English names and on the first day of class I had them introduce themselves and provide some personal comments. One student had the name Clark, as he likes Superman. Another's name was Usher, as he likes his music. Barbara had just changed her name before class so the others laughed as calling her by that name was new to them (sometimes they change their English names often as it is only personal preference, nothing legal about it). I also have Summer, Joyce, Cloudy, Ford, RTV, Dirk, Rex, Champion, Mayer, Stich, Scobing, Bobby, David, Mars, Jeron, Jimmy, Aida, Freeda...

Students do not work while they are going to school. To them, school is their full-time job. They spend many hours at studying for all their classes. I gave them an assignment one day and the next day they all had PowerPoint presentations for the class. All were very high caliber. They were amazed that students in the U.S. either have full-time or part-time jobs. All live on campus and I was told this university has about 20,000 students. The freshmen, though, go to school at a different campus a few blocks away. That is where Mel and Elmeda will be teaching English.

It is commom practice to talk to one another during the class but the students have been very courteous in keeping this to a minimum. But when their peers get up to make a presentation, they do not show the same courtesy and the 'buzz' can get quite loud. The word "quiet" gets it down to a hush.

The photo that I posted tells a story in itself. Packages must come on certain days and apparently it was Tuesday around noon. As we were walking to the faculty eatery, we passed this sight. Students were rummaging through packages that were strewn on the ground in an attempt to find one that was theirs. Evidently, that is how packages are delivered on campus. Note the FedEx packages amongst the pile. Ken told me that in previous teaching visits he has had a delivery person come right into the classroom to deliver to a student because that would be the only time to get their package.

Many students will come up to me while walking on campus and begin a conversation, wanting to practice their English skills. The other evening, a young man approached me on his bicycle (there are many, many of these on campus; one is dodging them constantly) and asked if I was from North Dakota. David was in the engineering program but had apparently had several conversations with Steve Carlson (a UND accounting professor who has taught at USST several times) when he was here last summer. David gets practice with his English by watching the past seasons of Desperate Housewives. I told him that the storyline had jumped ahead five years so as we began to dialogue about the show, he decided he didn't want to hear anymore so it wouldn't spoil his viewing. He said my accent was "like the waves of the ocean," whatever that means. He gave hand motions of flowing water so I think he was referring to smoothness and being easy to listen to. I told David to stop by my office whenever he wanted to carry on more conversation. He already knew where my office was as apparently he must check from time-to-time to see when any new faculty members arrive with whom he can practice his speaking skills. David hopes to get a PhD in the United States one day.

Another student stopped in my office as she found out that I graduated from Purdue University. Joyce wants to get her masters at Purdue in marketing. Her drawback is that, as with many master's programs, three to five years of work experience is required. She was wondering what to do and to find out more about the University. I could go on with stories about several other students, but they would be similar. They are very interested in the States and seek out opportunities in education and work in the corporate world.

One of the requirements that students have is taking a physical education course each term. They have their choice of the standards, but basketball is probably the most popular, along with soccer. There are basketball courts all over campus and one is located near where I stay. At night I go to sleep hearing them play; the bouncing ball is like counting sheep. Not that I have to count for too long.

A Saturday in Shanghai

What do you do on a Saturday in Shanghai? Food is always a good start. Mel, Elmeda, and I took a taxi to meet Ken Mellem at the Phoenix Hotel where he is staying. We had the address written down for us in Chinese as none of the taxi drivers can speak English. Ken was going to take us to Malone's, which is an American cafe in the heart of Shanghai.

We had a short walk to the underground Metro. We bought our Metro cards as this enabled us to travel around on the system with just scanning our cards when we enter and exit through the turnstyles. The appropriate amount is deducted from the card based on distance traveled; same as the system in Washington, DC. After about eight stops we changed trains at People's Square, known as the political, cultural, and arts center of the city, and then had two additional stops, getting off at Jing An Temple Station. A few blocks of walking finally got us to Malone's which has a pub atmosphere. The 'Big Daddy Breakfast' was the choice for all. That included eggs, bacon, ham, fried potatoes, french toast, pancakes, fruit, orange juice, and coffee. It was a breakfast you couldn't finish but it sure tasted good trying.

After our feed (it was in the early afternoon by now), we ventured out to walk the streets of Shanghai to see how we could part with some RMB. Some of the places looked familiar as I remembered they were included in my January trip. We walked through several shopping centers to view the assortment of retailers. Plaza 66 is the most upscale having all the top designers--Dior, Fendi, Armani... Passing one jewelry store I noticed a necklace on display that had a price of over 390,000 RMB. Most pay cash here still, with limited credit card usage. So the transfer of RMB notes (the largest denomination is 100) would take awhile and probably happen in a back room. Checking for counterfeit bills would also be done (every one of mine has been inspected when handed off) so the transaction may not be complete in one day.

Ken wanted to take us to a shopping mart where bargaining takes place so after our roundabout taxi ride to get there we were in the midst of bargaining mania. It was fun to see who would come out the victor. A silver and gold bracelet caught my eye and sales individual started the price at 960 RMB. I said too much and after going back and forth, left because the lowest price offered was 300; I indicated 200 RMB was my offer. She followed, which is often the case, and it is now in my possession. Most everything you could imagine was there to shop for. As we walked the aisles of the different floors, all were yelling to you or grabbing your arm to come see their goods. The environment was typical of bargaining places. Mel was looking for a set of Ping golf clubs, but didn't make the purchase. Of course they aren't real, but good counterfeits. We decided that this stop would be on the list for another Saturday as we knew we could spend hours taking it all in.

We walked back through People's Square and again, I noticed several buildings that had been my stops in January. I decided that some I wanted to go back to, such as the Shanghai Museum. There were people everywhere but it was late afternoon so I am assuming many were on their way home. At least the Metro was packed on our way back to the Phoenix House.

Our food choice for the evening was to visit Pizza Hut just down the street from the Phoenix House. The group shared a pizza and I opted for a Kiwi Mango Rendevous while the others tried the beer. The pizza here has less sauce and it tastes like a lavosh but with a pizza crust. I have had a pizza on campus and it is the same. More on food in a later blog.

We strolled the streets back to the hotel to catch a taxi back to the University. Merchants were out on the streets peddling their wares and their food. Since it was dark by this time, only the store lights shed light onto the street for them to sell. One entrepreneur fixed that problem by rigging lights to his cycle. He used McDonald cups for the shades to his lamps, quite inventive. It was a good day.

The Lotus Center

I took another trip to the Lotus Center as Mel and Elmeda wanted to search out the local convenience shopping. It really is a WalMart wanna-be. I don't know if it is a chain or just the one store. It has everything, from electronics to food to clothing to liquor.

There is someone standing at the entrance, but he appears to be more security-related than a 'WalMart greeter.' When we were in the food area I wanted to take a photo of the chicken feet and other delectables to post, but when I took out the camera a gentleman came up and shook his head in the negative. Later, I approached a more friendly-looking female and took the camera out and tried to signal that I wanted to take some photos; she motioned to the front of the store so off I went to get approval. After again doing my pantomime to indicate my wish, The 'WalMart greeter' shook his head, but added a firm vocal "no." So unfortunately, I am not able to show some of the store's offerings.

If there would have been air conditioning in the store, we would have stayed longer; but the air was quite heavy. We spent most of the time in the food area. The fresh fish, beef, pork, chicken, and other 'birds' were displayed in a combination of open market style (with ice) and heated cases. The aromas mixed with the warm air filled the nostrils. Every body part to the animal/bird seemed to be available for purchase. In the heated case, many items looked very appealing but then there was this one container at the end--it had tiny, tiny, little birds in it and they were very dark with some sauce basted on them. Not many remained so this item must be on the shopping list for others. It wasn't on mine.

Going down the packaged goods aisles it was easy to find the Pringles, the Lays, the Oreos, and other assorted snack and cookie brands. There were also the Coke products and juice brands, such as Minute Maid. Trade dress was ever present so they were easy to spot, even though the American tradename was not on the package. In some instances, though, the tradename was used. In health and beauty aids I found such brands as Tide, Safeguard, and Kleenex. With these products, the name was the constant yet their trade dress was not always apparent as we know it. It was interesting to see the strategy that different companies use in packaging their products in the international market. There was no consistency.

I by-passed the dairy aisle as there was still news of arsenic being present in dairy products here. Even though the news programs indicate they have been taken off the market and are locking down on the production of these products, I decided to play it safe. Besides, I brought calcium tablets along.

Prices are very reasonable. I bought another liter bottle of Minute Maid orange juice and paid 5.50 RMB, which is roughly 80 cents converted. As I went through the checkout lane, I thought maybe I should have looked for a 'pillowtop' for my bed or an air mattress (that is what Mel and Elmeda brought along) to add some comfort to my sleep. Maybe on another visit.

The Early Hours

Sleep, eat, movie, read, sleep, eat, sleep... There was nothing too exciting on the long flights to Shanghai, but I guess that is what is hoped for when traveling. I arrived after 9:00 p.m. on Sunday evening (that would be 9:00 a.m. Sunday home time) with Jessica Wu, the Dean's secretary, meeting me after getting through customs. It took about 45 minutes to get to the University and to my new 'home' for the next seven weeks. It is a humble abode on the third floor (no elevators). Two gentlemen carried up my bags and was I ever thankful for that as one of the bags weighed 68 pounds! That bag was a two-person job, each took an end. It should be lighter on the way home as most of the school materials will be left behind.

My home has a small living area which includes a small desk w/chair, a television (the only English speaking channel is CCTv), two straight chairs, a two-drawer chest, an end table, and a small refrigerator. I was hoping for an easy chair, but there will be no lounging in this room! The bedroom has two single beds with rock hard mattresses (no lounging here either). A bathroom is adjacent. Notably missing are any washcloths and there is a very limited supply of tissue (it is allocated in very small amounts by wrapping some up in a bundle). An asset to the living quarters is an air conditioner in each of the two main rooms. That is most appreciated as the weather is still muggy and warm.

I was up early on Monday morning to visit Ken Mellem's International Marketing class. It was a good introduction to the classroom culture. I have the same cohort of students as he so I will see them on Friday morning, my first teaching day. Classroom space is small and though they have Microsoft, it is the Chinese version so assistance is needed to get set up. Classes run for 45 minutes and then the bell rings for a 10 minute break. After that, another 45 minutes of class and the bell rings again.

We went to lunch on campus to a place frequented by faculty and staff. There was an English version to the menu but Jessica did the ordering. As I was scanning the menu, I knew right away that I would pass on the "boiled cow lung, fried bullfrog and stir-fried baby chicken." Maybe some other time.

After a 5-hour nap (jet lag), I visited the Internet cafe adjacent to the Expert House (where I stay). I think this is where I will be spending some time as they have easy chairs!

After a good night's sleep, I was in the office bright and early this morning. The computers are loaded with Microsoft, but they are copied versions. Security is not present either as it pops up that the connection is not secure. Connections are slow, as I tried to get online into my email but could not get Internet access. I tried later and then was able to access but after waiting about 15 minutes. I hope it gets better. One nice surprise when I booted up the computer was the screensaver of the 125th anniversary photo of students, faculty, and staff!

Jessica came into the office and introduced me to a couple from Arizona. They are UND graduates, Mel and Elmeda (sp?) Johnson. They are here for four months and will be teaching English. They are next door neighbors to me at the Expert House. Mel indicated that they had not been back to UND since the late '90s so that will enjoyable to converse with them over the next few weeks.

Ken took me to the 'Lotus' which is like a WalMart. It was about a quarter mile walk. I bought a few oranges (I go by my rule of not eating anything fresh unless I can peel it), Minute Maid orange juice (with a Chinese label, but the brand images were the same so it was easy to identify), washcloths, Kleenex tissues and TP--all of the necessities. It was interesting to go up and down the aisles and note when a company has used the same brand name or has changed the name but can still be identified by its visuals. More on this latter; hopefully, I get some photos to share.

I haven't taken any photos yet but will begin doing so now that I am settled. Hopefully, this non-techy person can get them loaded onto the blog.